From Doha News: Flying Through Hamad International Airport

Qatar's new airport, years in development, opened this May.  On the 27th, the last planes took off from the old airport, and now every commercial flight will go in or out of Hamad International.

While I haven't been yet (though I will the first weekend of June on my way to Oman), DohaNews posted a good article on the new facilities and "What You Need to Know" about it.  Here are a few excerpts:

Flying through Hamad International Airport: What You Need to KnowBy: VICTORIA SCOTT | May 26, 2014

As of 9 AM, all commercial flights in and out of the country will operate from the new, state-of-the-art Hamad International Airport (HIA), signaling the closure of the overloaded Doha International Airport....For those encountering the new airport for the first time, here are some tips to help with your transition....HIA has both long term and short stay car parks. At the moment, both of these are free. Airport officials have not yet announced how much these will cost when charging is introduced....You’ll find a Karwa taxi rank to your left as you exit Arrivals. Remember that the standard additional charge for all airport pick-ups is QR25....a spokeswoman from HIA told Doha News today that all 30 cafes and restaurants will be open at the airport from Tuesday, along with 70 shops selling clothes, electronics and gourmet food. At least one public food outlet, The Caviar House, has alcohol on its menu....Qatar Airways advises that all passengers should try to arrive at the airport three hours before their flight. Check in will close an hour before departure for economy passengers, and 45 minutes beforehand for premium classes.
There is free wifi on offer throughout the airport.

I'm looking forward to my coming flight.  Check out the full article and others at Doha News.

Getting a Driver's License (Part Two)

Driving School and the Signals and Engine Tests.

The path to a driver's license can be confusing. If there are clear directions about what one must do, they're hard to find. Take the concept of the "driving school." The name is misleading.  When an American hears "driving school" it conjures up an image of being taught how to drive over the course of several days or weeks, sitting at a desk and learning the tedious, detailed rules of the road.  While that exists at Qatari driving schools, the facilities also serve to administer tests and give driver's licenses to those who pass.

None are really operated by the government.  Granted, there are a few Qatari officials there, and usually a Traffic Department officer overseeing things.  The overwhelming number of people working at the schools are mostly Indians and a few other Arabs.  In part, it's practical; the overwhelming number of people undergoing instruction and evaluation at the schools are Indian.  For a non-Arabic, non-Hindi, non-Malayalam, non-any other Indian dialect speaker, it can make for some difficulty.

For one, the facilities tend to be laid out strangely, and nothing is marked.  My efforts were conducted at the Gulf Driving School at the southern edge of Doha nor far from the old airport in Al-Thumama.  My first trip there, I wandered around for a bit until I found the main offices far inside the compound.  There, I eventually registered for a Signals Test and was told to go buy a guide book in the main waiting area in another building.

For the Signals Test, I was told to get there early in the morning -- 6 AM -- when there would be fewer people there.  That's a positive and negative thing.  There may have been few people there taking tests, but there was also almost no one around to direct me where to go.  And without any signs that say "Signals Test Here," I just had to wander around to find someone to show me where to go.

So, the first piece of advice, don't be embarrassed to wander around like a rube and ask every total stranger "where do I need to go?"

I had gone over the signals book a couple times (for any American or European you will already know almost all the road signs used in Qatar; but go through it to find the handful that are different, or have another meaning), but was still a bit nervous about the test, mainly because I had little idea what to expect.

I arrived at 5:50 AM, eventually figured out where to go, and was number twenty-four in line.  Be prepared to wait.  They didn't begin calling anyone for the test until about 7:00.  Then, they call people about twelve at a time -- except they called number twenty-four in the third group; so the wait added up to about an hour and a half or so.

The test itself was actually pretty easy.  It's conducted on a touch-screen computer.  A road-sign shows up along with four possible answers.  The only disconcerting part was a statement, worded as a statement, with a question mark: "It is illegal to use a mobile phone while operating a motor vehicle?"  The two options were "Right" and "Wrong."  If it was a question as to whether it is illegal to do so, the answer is "Right."  But if they're asking if the action is illegal, the answer would be "Wrong."  I chose "Wrong" reasoning that they meant tat the action was bad, and it turned out I was right.  There was a second statement/question worded the same (that I can't remember now) that I answered similarly.  Five-ten minutes and I was done and was told "You pass. Wait outside."

I did just that, glad I had passed.  Then, a few minutes later, a gruff Qatari said, "You come now for engine test," and walked outside.

I was unaware of this part of the process, so I had no idea what to expect.

We walked over to a car with its hood up, and the guy pointed to components and asked, "What this?"

I could remember most things, or at least the American vernacular for them (which confused the guy), but couldn't see the cap for the brake fluid and told him, "I'm not sure what that is."

He then stated, almost angrily, "You fail. Do again."

I barely understood what was going on anyways, so I asked, "When can I do it again?"

He was walking back inside (I followed, of course), and he started saying, "You do drive test" or something that sounded like that to me.

I replied, "Yes, I need to take the driving test."

He didn't like that.  "No.  You take drive test?"

It sounded exactly the same, so I said, "Yes, I still need to take the driving test, so when can I do the engine test again?"

He was getting annoyed by then and, with great irony, asked "What you's problem? You not know English?" and then promptly walked off where I couldn't follow.

A hopefully helpful map to navigate the Gulf Driving School compound

So I asked someone else about re-taking the engine test.  All he said was "Oh yes, wait here" and pointed to some chairs nearby.  I've learned, do not just take a seat anywhere.  You have to pester people to get things done sometimes.  So I watched for the engine test guy.  Once I saw him go back outside to do more engine tests about forty minutes later, I followed.  When he was done with one guy, I handed him my papers.  He pointed to just three components that time (instead of ten the time before), and though annoyed, he signed my stuff and told me where to go to sign up for the driving test.

From Doha News: Five Tips for New Expats on Settling into Qatar

Great advice from a great site on relocating to Qatar. Here's an excerpt:

Five Tips for New Expats on Settling into Qatar

By: Victoria Scott | May 16, 2014

In order to get the most of your time in Qatar, consider:

• Keeping busy with hobbies and events;
• Focusing on making new friends, both expat and local;
• Avoiding returning to your home country too often;
• Learning about local culture; and
• And exploring Qatar’s open spaces.

A fulfilling life in Qatar requires work, but if you’re prepared to put the effort in, I argue that the country will “pay your efforts back twice over.”

Check out the full article and others on Doha News.

Qatariïsms: Wasta

Wasta means connections.  Qatar runs on it.  In many cases, things in Qatar take time, or are downright confusing.  When it comes to the professional world, some people don't respond if they feel the requester is beneath them in status.

But Qatari citizens seem to know everyone; and since it's their country, they can demand a lot more done a lot faster when they want to.  As a consequence, if you are able, form personal relationships with Qatari citizens (which can be difficult for a variety of reasons).  And don't hesitate to ask for a little help, and to ask them to use their wasta.

Getting a Driver's License (Part One)

Prepare to be Annoyed (if You're American).

If you're an American and enjoy being frustrated and annoyed, then try to get your driver's license in Qatar.

If you're British or from a number of Western nations, the process for getting a driver's license here is (almost shockingly) easy.  About a month-and-a-half ago, a friend and I initiated the process to get our licenses -- basically on the same day.  The only difference between us was nationality: he's British, I'm American.  For most Westerners, all one must do is fill out an application, get a "no objection" letter from his employer, show a current driver's license from his country of origin, and he receives a Qatari license.

While that used to be the case up until about two years ago, Americans must now go through an additional level of scrutiny.  The rumor about Doha is that some sheik studying in the United States a couple years wanted a driver's license there, was required to do a series of driving tests, and so when he returned home to Qatar he called up a relative and demanded the same rules be applied to Americans here.  A believable, if not totally accurate story.

The New Traffic Department Building

For my British friend, it took about an hour-and-a-half hours to get down to the traffic department, submit the paperwork, get the license, and go back to his apartment.

The equivalent for me took about a month-and-a-half.

In the case of almost everyone in Qatar, the employer must create a "no objection" letter saying they don't mind.  I acquired that back in March.  Once that and the application are readied, the applicant must get an optical exam which can be conducted by any approved optometrist.  I did that about two weeks after I got the paperwork.  That's when Doha-delays set in.

At first it seemed as though wasta would provide some ease in the procedure.  There are several Qataris at the College with whom I have developed a good working relationship.  Qataris seem to know almost every other citizen in the country (and if they don't already, they just make a new friend; additionally, everyone has an uncle or cousin in every government ministry or office.  So I consulted with one of my citizen-associates and, just as I hoped, he had a friend in the Traffic Department.  Sounded like things were going to get through with ease.

My associate took my paperwork and said he would give it to his friend who would convert my license.  A week later, he said we needed to go get an eye exam and we went that night.  I thought we would go straight to the licensing office after, but instead we spent three hours in his majlis (which was actually pretty interesting, if not productive).  The next day, we went to the Traffic Department and found that there was no way around the rules -- I needed to go to driving school.

A (Very) Short History of Qatar (Part Four)

Since Independence.

One of the great keys to Qatari success has been its oil and natural gas production. Experts estimate that the state possesses more than fifteen percent of the world’s proven gas reserves. Because of the petroleum industry, Qatar is one of the wealthiest countries in the world as evidenced by the impressive construction in Doha over the past decade.

The immense wealth balances well with the small population. Just over two million people call Qatar home (permanently or temporarily). Resident foreigners vastly outnumber the Qatari citizenry. Indians and Pakistanis, for instance, constitute the largest ethnic groups with a combined 900,000 residents, while there are only 278,000 Qatari citizens.

The fantastic wealth of Qatar has lead to the erasure of basically all taxes for both citizens and residents, and an all-embracing welfare state for the Qatari people. Even for foreign residents, many services are free or heavily subsidized.

Qatar has also undergone a great deal of political and social change since its inception in 1971. A year after independence, conflict within the ruling al-Thani family resulted in palace coup by which Khalifa bin Hamad al-Thani took power.

Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani and his wife, Sheikha Moza

The monarchy initiated a program of modernization and modest liberalization after a bloodless second coup in 1995 gained power for Hamad bin Khalifa. That included the establishment, in 1996, of the Al-Jazeera Network through which Qatar is gaining regional influence. As a degree of press freedom has been instituted, the Doha-based satellite television station has attracted a growing audience and become one of the most important broadcasters in the Arab world.

 And testament to the growing influence of the English language in the region, Al-Jazeera launched exclusively English programming in 2006. Legislation approved in 2012, however, maintains certain regulations on what can and cannot be broadcast in media.

Qatar also has the highest level of internet usage in the Middle East, though some material remains filtered.

Additionally, as part of the liberalization efforts, in 1999 Qatar held elections for a municipal council. Women were permitted to both vote and run for office. In 2003, the government established a new constitution (that took effect in 2005) which created a parliament – the Advisory Council – with thirty elected and fifteen appointed members.

Sheikh Tamim (left) and the former emir, Hamad (right)

2003 also saw the beginning of a transition in leadership. That year, Sheikh Hamad announced the preference of one of his younger sons, Prince Tamim, for succession. In 2013, Hamad abdicated and peacefully transferred power – a unique move in the Middle East. Sheikh Tamim had been involved in running the country under his father's direction in previous years, and so many commentators do not anticipate any major changes to foreign or domestic policies of the previous two decades.

The tiny emirate also aims to be a major political player in the region. The Qataris have maintained good relations with the United States for several decades. After Iraq invaded Kuwait in 1990, Qatar allowed American forces on its soil. Qatari troops also took part in the liberation of Kuwait. In 2011, the Qatari helped arm the Libyan opposition and joined international military operations against Muammar Qaddafi.

They have also been active on the diplomatic stage, mediating disputes in the Middle East and Africa. And in 2012, the Afghan opposition was permitted to set up offices in Doha to facilitate peace talks with the American Government.

With so much still in progress, it will be fascinating to watch as Qatar expands its role in the world.

A Texan in Dubai

Oddly enough, there are some websites about "Things to Do in Qatar" that actually list "Travel to..." as a top activity.  There's plenty to do and see in Qatar.

At the same time, Doha is becoming a great hub for regional and international travel.  Several major, minor, expensive, and affordable carriers serve Doha International Airport.  Once the new airport is fully operational (it's been in progress for almost ten years now, and only just had a "soft" open for a couple low-cost airlines this last week), the situation will continue to improve.

When I received my Residency Permit the first week of February, I decided to book a trip for the first week of March.  I asked friends and family their suggestions, and the majority voted in favor of Dubai.  I could have chosen a different destination for that trip, because about a month later I went back, this time with a good friend of mine.  As has been mentioned before, here on this site, it's really easy to meet and make friends in Doha -- and it's far better to travel with people.

Dubai is a fantastic place to go.  It's definitely the Middle East's playground.  Whatever you enjoy, they probably have it.

My friend Isaac (who has an interesting, more technical blog, which provides a different perspective on our travels) and I went on FlyDubai, the local low-cost carrier.  I got a round-trip at a nice time for about 600 QR (170 USD); the quality is good; and even if it wasn't, the flight to the Emirates is only about an hour.

Additionally, for Americans, most Europeans, the Persian Gulf state-ers, and some other Westernized peoples, entry into the United Arab Emirates is easy and fast.  In our case, we walked right through the line, they stamped our visas, and we were on our way.

There are plenty of expensive hotels, but through travel sites like Booking, TripAdvisor, and others, high-quality/inexpensive accommodations can be found.  My first trip out I stayed at the Amwaj Rotana just off the beach in the Marina area (great, but a little pricier), and the second at the Flora Grand not far from Dubai International in Al-Rigga (good, and somewhat cheaper -- about $75 a person for two nights).

Travel around Dubai is great as well.  There is an abundance of taxis (the drivers of whom all speak English, or at the very least a version of it); and the Dubai Metro, while mostly a straight shot, stops at almost all the places you want to go, and it's the cheapest ride in town -- 16 AED (about 4 USD) for an all-day pass.

But it's not just about transit and accommodations, is it....There's quite a bit to do and see in Dubai.  Obviously, it depends on your own tastes, but here are a few ideas.

Madinat Jumeirah Souq

The Souq at Madinat Jumeirah was an unplanned but fantastic find.  Our goal was to get as close to the iconic Burj Al-Arab as possible (since one can only go in with a hotel or restaurant reservation, and both are unbelievably expensive).  One the way we ended up at Madinat Jumeirah.  It reminded me a lot of the River Walk in San Antonio.  Pleasant outdoor spaces, places to eat, plenty to buy.  I even found a fairly affordable Medieval Arab helmet -- which I've been looking for since I arrived in the region.

And of course, it's views of the Burj Al-Arab were unbeatable.

Candid

If you're made of money, there are plenty of places to shop.  Dubai has at least a dozen big-time malls.  The Mall of the Emirates is definitely nice (and you can go snow-skiing there...).  The Dubai Mall is truly the largest shopping center in the world.  It has every store I've ever seen, and a hundred more I've never heard of.  If you're like me and there are only a few stores that sell clothes you can actually wear, and can't find them anywhere in the Middle East, the Dubai Mall has them.

Dubai Mall Aquarium

And it's not just a mall.  The aquarium is impressive.  It boasts the largest single piece of plexiglass in the world.  The tunnel that goes under the massive tank is a real spectacle.  We ended up spending over an hour wandering through it.  Plus, if you go at the right time, you can watch some divers feed the array of things swimming around in there.

Another part of the facility, up on the second floor, has dozens of smaller tanks with a number of colorful creatures from the beautiful to the bizarre.  And, if you're really taken with the great tank, you can go on a glass-bottom raft ride.  It only lasts ten minutes, but it gives an interesting perspective.

I pray those needle-teeth never find my leg

Somewhat ridiculously, they give the passengers life-preservers.  We questioned exactly how someone might end up going over the side of the little dingy.  But if it happens to you, don't get eaten.

If you enjoy the more historical aspects of the world around you (like I do), there are a few good sites in Dubai.  There's the old pearl-diving village on Dubai Creek, not far from the former estate of the emir and his family.

Also, an old fort has been transformed into the Dubai Museum (though it was closed when we went -- just a tip, don't go to anything besides the major malls on Friday).  On the other side of the Creek there's a traditional school built in the early 1900s worth seeing, and Heritage House if you want to see how Emiratis lived not too long ago.

There are plenty of other things to do and see, but the cap on the entire trip was a trip up the Burj Khalifa.  For a mere 125 AED (34 USD) it's the best experience for the least amount of money.  It's hard to accurately describe.  Heading in, I thought it would be interesting; but it was better than I imagined.

The ride up to the observation deck is even a spectacle.  You get in a large elevator with LED screens on all sides.  As you go up, the lights run down the walls and the music gets increasingly dramatic.  Then, suddenly, when you reach floor 127, the lights go out and the music crescendos.  Then, the doors open to your first view from "the Top."

The view is spectacular.  We spent two hours wandering about just looking out over the city.  The Dubai Mall and the buildings around it look like models below.  On the northern side of the tower one can see the Emirate of Sharjah on the horizon.  It was late afternoon, so the sun hung low over the coast, which made for a nice scene.  The Palm Islands in the far distance were hazy, but visible, as were the World Islands (still under development).  The Burj Al-Arab, which is itself quite tall, looks miniscule from the Burj Khalifa.  It was easy to stare off in the distance for long moments of time.

Of all the places to go in Dubai, the Burj Khalifa cannot be missed.  But be sure to book your tickets online or you'll miss out -- spots open about a month in advance, and the times fill up faster than you can believe.

So, if you're in Qatar, take advantage of it.

Return of the Blog

After a series of trips, finals, and other things to occupy time, the Texan's Guide to Qatar will return with new posts this week, discussing things like a trip to Qatari historical sites, some places around Doha to have some fun, bits on travel to Dubai and Egypt (both for surprisingly cheap...from the Doha airport), and maybe even a mention of the new Hamad International Airport.