Things to Do in Qatar: The Cross-Country Road Trip

A lot of expats in Qatar find the country dull, that there's nothing to do.  They're wrong, so don't listen to them.  Granted, it is easier to get bored but not for lack of activities.  But like anywhere, Qatar is what you make it to be.

Since arriving just over six months ago, I have not had an inactive day except by choice (taking a break from having too much to do).  And not just work.  My job has provided me with a lot of opportunities to get out and do what I want, often whenever I want to.  And there's always the weekend (which is Friday-Saturday here).

One thing I've quite enjoyed is getting around and seeing the country.  It's not big, so one can drive around the entire Peninsula on a single tank of gas, in a single day, with a few liters and hours to spare.

Our route around the Peninsula

A friend of mine and I did just that a couple months ago.  I'd finally gained my driver's license.  Even though I'd been to the southern desert, Dubai (twice) and Egypt, and planned a trip to Oman, I wanted to get out of Doha and see the countryside -- the whole countryside.  So I got a four-wheel-drive Nissan Pathfinder from Al Muftah Car Rentals, practiced on Friday, and we headed out Saturday morning about 8:30.  Our goal was to see every point of interest we could possibly get to.

We'd already seen the Barzan Towers in Umm Salal Muhammad and month or so before, so we breezed through the last settlement on Highway 1, through open space, and north up the eastern coast to Al-Khor for its famous Mangroves.

The southern third of Qatar is basically a sandy desert, and the rest is a rocky desert; so the Mangroves are one of the few naturally green places in Qatar.  It's a nice area.  Water flows through it.  My friend enlightened me as to the workings of the mangrove plant.  Apparently, it has the ability to take in salt water and put it out clean.  The back of each leaf expels the separated salt (so I licked the back of one -- it was good).  The place is quiet and generally has few visitors, and definitely worth wandering about.

After about a half hour or so in the Mangroves we headed up to Al-Jassasiya to find Qatar's semi-famed petroglyphs.  While their origins and use are still not fully determined, the current assumption is that they were carved at least several centuries ago.  Some depict boats, flowers, and other natural things.  There are also a number of troughs and holes that some believe were part of some game.  Unfortunately, the entire place was fenced off, and as big an area as it covered, we likely wouldn't have found the carvings anyhow.

Following the fruitless stop, we continued to Qatar's northernmost town, Madinat Ash Shamal (which is basically combined with Al-Ruwais).  There wasn't necessarily anything to see, but we did stop there a bit after noon to have our lunch (which included forbidden bacon) on the walk that looked out over the tidal bay.

When we were no longer starving, Isaac and I continued on our trek, finally turning south.  Our goal was the fort and abandoned settlement of Al-Zubarah, but along the way we found an interesting site.  Whereas we hadn't been able to see any rock carvings at Jassasiya, along the northwestern road we stumbled across some isolated petroglyphs.  Nothing particularly special, just a series of holes and scrapes.  But for some reason they were mildly interesting.

We then made for Zubarah.  That was probably the highlight of the trip.  The first fort was established back in the eighteenth century, destroyed, and rebuilt several times.  The Bahrainis, Ottomans, and Qataris have all used

the site to defend what was once an important pearling and trading port.  Today the settlement is abandoned and the subject of an archaeological project.  What remained of the most recent fort has been excellently restored.  Because it's out of the way, the fort is basically empty.  One can wander around freely and see the whole place, undisturbed.  RasGas or QaPCo (can't remember which) provided for the renovations, and so the exhibits inside are mostly about the geology of the Peninsula and oil-and-gas production.  But the fort is definitely worth seeing.

 

The journey carried on through the interior.  It's a dry, empty expanse of rock, some sand, and the occasional shrub.  Despite the occasional "Camel Crossing" sign, without sighting any such thing, that part of our drive was basically uneventful.

I steered off the highway just northeast of Dukhan (the only active town on the western coast) up to Zekreet.  We intended to go up to what Google Maps has marked as the intriguingly named "Mystery Village," but couldn't figure out the way.  Instead, we headed for another fort.  That one proved highly disappointing.  the Zekreet Fort is a ruin now.  One can make the outline, but no more than a foot of the walls remain.

The Zekreet area itself, however, is worth the trip.  The beach is nice, but much more the rocky features just off the road.  None are particularly high (though if one fell off some it would hurt pretty badly), but they're a wonder to wander.  Carved by centuries of water and wind, one can find seams of iron and quartz run through them.  The colors are interesting.  Were it not so hot, we could have explored the mesas and valleys for hours.

The rented vehicle had to be back in Doha by 6:00 PM, so the day was running short.  We had intended to follow the road on to Dukhan, then back east; instead, we traveled the road through Al-Rayyan and directly to the rental place.

A terrific trip.

From Doha News: Flying Through Hamad International Airport

Qatar's new airport, years in development, opened this May.  On the 27th, the last planes took off from the old airport, and now every commercial flight will go in or out of Hamad International.

While I haven't been yet (though I will the first weekend of June on my way to Oman), DohaNews posted a good article on the new facilities and "What You Need to Know" about it.  Here are a few excerpts:

Flying through Hamad International Airport: What You Need to KnowBy: VICTORIA SCOTT | May 26, 2014

As of 9 AM, all commercial flights in and out of the country will operate from the new, state-of-the-art Hamad International Airport (HIA), signaling the closure of the overloaded Doha International Airport....For those encountering the new airport for the first time, here are some tips to help with your transition....HIA has both long term and short stay car parks. At the moment, both of these are free. Airport officials have not yet announced how much these will cost when charging is introduced....You’ll find a Karwa taxi rank to your left as you exit Arrivals. Remember that the standard additional charge for all airport pick-ups is QR25....a spokeswoman from HIA told Doha News today that all 30 cafes and restaurants will be open at the airport from Tuesday, along with 70 shops selling clothes, electronics and gourmet food. At least one public food outlet, The Caviar House, has alcohol on its menu....Qatar Airways advises that all passengers should try to arrive at the airport three hours before their flight. Check in will close an hour before departure for economy passengers, and 45 minutes beforehand for premium classes.
There is free wifi on offer throughout the airport.

I'm looking forward to my coming flight.  Check out the full article and others at Doha News.

A Texan in Dubai

Oddly enough, there are some websites about "Things to Do in Qatar" that actually list "Travel to..." as a top activity.  There's plenty to do and see in Qatar.

At the same time, Doha is becoming a great hub for regional and international travel.  Several major, minor, expensive, and affordable carriers serve Doha International Airport.  Once the new airport is fully operational (it's been in progress for almost ten years now, and only just had a "soft" open for a couple low-cost airlines this last week), the situation will continue to improve.

When I received my Residency Permit the first week of February, I decided to book a trip for the first week of March.  I asked friends and family their suggestions, and the majority voted in favor of Dubai.  I could have chosen a different destination for that trip, because about a month later I went back, this time with a good friend of mine.  As has been mentioned before, here on this site, it's really easy to meet and make friends in Doha -- and it's far better to travel with people.

Dubai is a fantastic place to go.  It's definitely the Middle East's playground.  Whatever you enjoy, they probably have it.

My friend Isaac (who has an interesting, more technical blog, which provides a different perspective on our travels) and I went on FlyDubai, the local low-cost carrier.  I got a round-trip at a nice time for about 600 QR (170 USD); the quality is good; and even if it wasn't, the flight to the Emirates is only about an hour.

Additionally, for Americans, most Europeans, the Persian Gulf state-ers, and some other Westernized peoples, entry into the United Arab Emirates is easy and fast.  In our case, we walked right through the line, they stamped our visas, and we were on our way.

There are plenty of expensive hotels, but through travel sites like Booking, TripAdvisor, and others, high-quality/inexpensive accommodations can be found.  My first trip out I stayed at the Amwaj Rotana just off the beach in the Marina area (great, but a little pricier), and the second at the Flora Grand not far from Dubai International in Al-Rigga (good, and somewhat cheaper -- about $75 a person for two nights).

Travel around Dubai is great as well.  There is an abundance of taxis (the drivers of whom all speak English, or at the very least a version of it); and the Dubai Metro, while mostly a straight shot, stops at almost all the places you want to go, and it's the cheapest ride in town -- 16 AED (about 4 USD) for an all-day pass.

But it's not just about transit and accommodations, is it....There's quite a bit to do and see in Dubai.  Obviously, it depends on your own tastes, but here are a few ideas.

Madinat Jumeirah Souq

The Souq at Madinat Jumeirah was an unplanned but fantastic find.  Our goal was to get as close to the iconic Burj Al-Arab as possible (since one can only go in with a hotel or restaurant reservation, and both are unbelievably expensive).  One the way we ended up at Madinat Jumeirah.  It reminded me a lot of the River Walk in San Antonio.  Pleasant outdoor spaces, places to eat, plenty to buy.  I even found a fairly affordable Medieval Arab helmet -- which I've been looking for since I arrived in the region.

And of course, it's views of the Burj Al-Arab were unbeatable.

Candid

If you're made of money, there are plenty of places to shop.  Dubai has at least a dozen big-time malls.  The Mall of the Emirates is definitely nice (and you can go snow-skiing there...).  The Dubai Mall is truly the largest shopping center in the world.  It has every store I've ever seen, and a hundred more I've never heard of.  If you're like me and there are only a few stores that sell clothes you can actually wear, and can't find them anywhere in the Middle East, the Dubai Mall has them.

Dubai Mall Aquarium

And it's not just a mall.  The aquarium is impressive.  It boasts the largest single piece of plexiglass in the world.  The tunnel that goes under the massive tank is a real spectacle.  We ended up spending over an hour wandering through it.  Plus, if you go at the right time, you can watch some divers feed the array of things swimming around in there.

Another part of the facility, up on the second floor, has dozens of smaller tanks with a number of colorful creatures from the beautiful to the bizarre.  And, if you're really taken with the great tank, you can go on a glass-bottom raft ride.  It only lasts ten minutes, but it gives an interesting perspective.

I pray those needle-teeth never find my leg

Somewhat ridiculously, they give the passengers life-preservers.  We questioned exactly how someone might end up going over the side of the little dingy.  But if it happens to you, don't get eaten.

If you enjoy the more historical aspects of the world around you (like I do), there are a few good sites in Dubai.  There's the old pearl-diving village on Dubai Creek, not far from the former estate of the emir and his family.

Also, an old fort has been transformed into the Dubai Museum (though it was closed when we went -- just a tip, don't go to anything besides the major malls on Friday).  On the other side of the Creek there's a traditional school built in the early 1900s worth seeing, and Heritage House if you want to see how Emiratis lived not too long ago.

There are plenty of other things to do and see, but the cap on the entire trip was a trip up the Burj Khalifa.  For a mere 125 AED (34 USD) it's the best experience for the least amount of money.  It's hard to accurately describe.  Heading in, I thought it would be interesting; but it was better than I imagined.

The ride up to the observation deck is even a spectacle.  You get in a large elevator with LED screens on all sides.  As you go up, the lights run down the walls and the music gets increasingly dramatic.  Then, suddenly, when you reach floor 127, the lights go out and the music crescendos.  Then, the doors open to your first view from "the Top."

The view is spectacular.  We spent two hours wandering about just looking out over the city.  The Dubai Mall and the buildings around it look like models below.  On the northern side of the tower one can see the Emirate of Sharjah on the horizon.  It was late afternoon, so the sun hung low over the coast, which made for a nice scene.  The Palm Islands in the far distance were hazy, but visible, as were the World Islands (still under development).  The Burj Al-Arab, which is itself quite tall, looks miniscule from the Burj Khalifa.  It was easy to stare off in the distance for long moments of time.

Of all the places to go in Dubai, the Burj Khalifa cannot be missed.  But be sure to book your tickets online or you'll miss out -- spots open about a month in advance, and the times fill up faster than you can believe.

So, if you're in Qatar, take advantage of it.

Exit Permits: Am I Sixteen Again?

For any Westerner over the age of eighteen, it’s taken for granted that once one reaches the age of majority he can pretty much go where he wants when he wants. In a way, that’s not the case in Qatar for a foreign resident. This is an aspect of residency that takes some getting used to, but it’s not as troublesome as it sounds.

Once one has received his Residency Permit and identification card, he can travel but must first ask permission from the government to leave the country. I recently went to Dubai for a weekend vacation. I arranged the trip a month ahead, so I knew exactly when I was leaving well in advance. About two weeks out, I went to the College’s human resources department. As with most everything, the request for and issuance of Exit Permits is managed by the employer. The form was simple: name, Resident ID number, destination, departure date, return date. Two days before my departure, the permit was finalized and human resources gave me a copy of the verification. When I took off, I carried the document with me but no one ever asked for it. The information is tied to the passport, so they have all the records.

 

It’s not as sinister as it sounds. While there is room for problems, it’s minimal. As long as the government receives twenty-four-hour’s notice travel abroad is easy, and in the Persian Gulf region pretty cheap.

 

So, make sure mommy and daddy know where you’re going and maybe they’ll even let you stay out past your curfew.

Exit Permits: Am I Sixteen Again?

For any Westerner over the age of eighteen, it’s taken for granted that once one reaches the age of majority he can pretty much go where he wants when he wants.  In a way, that’s not the case in Qatar for a foreign resident.  This is an aspect of residency that takes some getting used to, but it’s not as troublesome as it sounds.

Once one has received his Residency Permit and identification card, he can travel but must first ask permission from the government to leave the country.  I recently went to Dubai for a weekend vacation.  I arranged the trip a month ahead, so I knew exactly when I was leaving well in advance.  About two weeks out, I went to the College’s human resources department.  As with most everything, the request for and issuance of Exit Permits is managed by the employer.  The form was simple: name, ID number, destination, departure date, return date.  Two days before my departure, the permit was finalized and human resources gave me a copy of the verification.  When I took off, I carried the document with me but no one ever asked for it.  The information is tied to the passport, so they have all the records.

Additionally, some companies are able to provide a year-long exit permit.  Typically, one has to pay for the running permit (whereas, at least in my case, I do not have to pay when I make a single request).

In practice, none of it is not as sinister as it sounds (of course, I'm speaking from the perspective of a professional and a Westerner; ask an Indian or African laborer and you'll get a much different, and sometimes unfortunate story).  While there is room for problems, it’s minimal.  As long as the government receives twenty-four-hour’s notice, travel abroad is easy -- and in the Persian Gulf region pretty cheap.

So make sure mommy and daddy know where you’re going and maybe they’ll even let you stay out past your curfew.