Getting a Driver's License (Part Three)

The Driving Test.

Having gone through months of confusion, finally taking and passing the signals test, and managing the bizarre engine test, the next and final step was the driving test.  That, of course, was the most important.

I heard many different things from friends around Doha on what to expect of the evaluation, and most of what they said had me fairly concerned.  Some spoke of a course through which I would have to demonstrate various parking methods (at least two of which are unnecessary), driving through crazy roundabouts, etc.  Others had claimed that "no one passes on the first try," which would be unfortunate as I didn't have a lot of free time in the mornings to head out to the Gulf Driving School a few times to try and fail the test.  Needless to say, I expected my ordeal was nowhere close to completion.

Fortunately, little of what I had been told held true.

First, Americans who have a current driver's license (that can be shown to the Traffic Department and/or the driving schools) do not need to do the separate parking test (so, if you fall into that category, make sure they send you straight to the road test, not the driving test, which is actually a parking test; italics).  While I was not aware of that the day I went, the people in charge fortunately did.

Following success in the signals and engine tests, I was given an appointment at 5:30 AM.  While I hate mornings, my driver got me there right on time.  As before, no one was present to direct me anywhere.  In fact, the whole place looked almost abandoned.  I wandered around for a bit until I found someone who, checked me in.  Carry cash with you, as you will have to pay yet another superfluous fee: to rent the car you will be driving for the test ("seriously?" is what I almost said to him, "y'all own the car...").  I was then directed to wait.

Be prepared to wait.

An hour went by, then another.  I started worrying I had gone to wait in the wrong place.  I found the guy who checked me in, and he said I was in the right place.  Over two hours had passed.  I was convinced by that point that I had somehow missed my call.  By then I was wandering about, asking anyone who understood English as to when the tests would start.  No one knew (most didn't understand what I was asking).  It was quite disconcerting.

Finally, two and a half hours later, they began calling names for road tests.  After another hour and thirty minutes, my name was called.

After some confusing directions, I found the car waiting in the compound.  A guy was already in the driver's seat, with both hands on the wheel, looking as though he had just been informed that the car was rigged to explode should he move at all.  A Jordanian man who also held American citizenship was the third in our car.  He and I chatted for a bit, and then we turned to the nervous guy and learned that it was his fourth try.  That didn't feel very encouraging.

Once the official who evaluated us arrived, we departed the compound for the streets of the Old Airport District.  Right, straight, take a u-turn, right again.  The first guy was done in less than twenty minutes.  He hardly engaged in all varieties of driving action.  I was somewhat heartened by it.  Next was the Jordanian.  His went about the same, although instead of a u-turn, he went through a couple one-land roundabouts.

Then my turn.  It nearly started in disaster.  Admittedly, I was a bit nervous.  I hopped in the driver's seat, adjusted the mirrors, moved the seat, almost everything one is expected to do before pulling out on to the road.  The official didn't see me adjust my mirrors, however, and so he asked "don't you think you should check your mirrors?"  So I feigned "not having gotten to them yet."  I re-readjusted the mirrors.  Looked for any coming traffic, and prepared to pull onto the road.  I then realized I had forgotten to fasten my seat-belt -- narrowly avoided that one.  The test itself was done in fifteen minutes.  Back to the driving school's compound and we were done.

Then, more waiting -- to hear if I had passed.  By about 10:00, they began going through the names.  More failed than passed, which caused a bit of anxiety.  But then, "Mahk Glahsen...pass."

Then, more waiting -- to get the license.  Once nice thing is that you can take the tests and get the physical license all in the same place.  After about twenty or thirty minutes I had the card in hand and was headed back to work.

Despite the angst and annoyance, and two months of having no idea what I was supposed to really do, I finally got the license.  Once again, a permitted driver.

And while one episode concluded, another began.  I had the license, but what was I to drive?

Things to Do in Qatar: The Cross-Country Road Trip

A lot of expats in Qatar find the country dull, that there's nothing to do.  They're wrong, so don't listen to them.  Granted, it is easier to get bored but not for lack of activities.  But like anywhere, Qatar is what you make it to be.

Since arriving just over six months ago, I have not had an inactive day except by choice (taking a break from having too much to do).  And not just work.  My job has provided me with a lot of opportunities to get out and do what I want, often whenever I want to.  And there's always the weekend (which is Friday-Saturday here).

One thing I've quite enjoyed is getting around and seeing the country.  It's not big, so one can drive around the entire Peninsula on a single tank of gas, in a single day, with a few liters and hours to spare.

Our route around the Peninsula

A friend of mine and I did just that a couple months ago.  I'd finally gained my driver's license.  Even though I'd been to the southern desert, Dubai (twice) and Egypt, and planned a trip to Oman, I wanted to get out of Doha and see the countryside -- the whole countryside.  So I got a four-wheel-drive Nissan Pathfinder from Al Muftah Car Rentals, practiced on Friday, and we headed out Saturday morning about 8:30.  Our goal was to see every point of interest we could possibly get to.

We'd already seen the Barzan Towers in Umm Salal Muhammad and month or so before, so we breezed through the last settlement on Highway 1, through open space, and north up the eastern coast to Al-Khor for its famous Mangroves.

The southern third of Qatar is basically a sandy desert, and the rest is a rocky desert; so the Mangroves are one of the few naturally green places in Qatar.  It's a nice area.  Water flows through it.  My friend enlightened me as to the workings of the mangrove plant.  Apparently, it has the ability to take in salt water and put it out clean.  The back of each leaf expels the separated salt (so I licked the back of one -- it was good).  The place is quiet and generally has few visitors, and definitely worth wandering about.

After about a half hour or so in the Mangroves we headed up to Al-Jassasiya to find Qatar's semi-famed petroglyphs.  While their origins and use are still not fully determined, the current assumption is that they were carved at least several centuries ago.  Some depict boats, flowers, and other natural things.  There are also a number of troughs and holes that some believe were part of some game.  Unfortunately, the entire place was fenced off, and as big an area as it covered, we likely wouldn't have found the carvings anyhow.

Following the fruitless stop, we continued to Qatar's northernmost town, Madinat Ash Shamal (which is basically combined with Al-Ruwais).  There wasn't necessarily anything to see, but we did stop there a bit after noon to have our lunch (which included forbidden bacon) on the walk that looked out over the tidal bay.

When we were no longer starving, Isaac and I continued on our trek, finally turning south.  Our goal was the fort and abandoned settlement of Al-Zubarah, but along the way we found an interesting site.  Whereas we hadn't been able to see any rock carvings at Jassasiya, along the northwestern road we stumbled across some isolated petroglyphs.  Nothing particularly special, just a series of holes and scrapes.  But for some reason they were mildly interesting.

We then made for Zubarah.  That was probably the highlight of the trip.  The first fort was established back in the eighteenth century, destroyed, and rebuilt several times.  The Bahrainis, Ottomans, and Qataris have all used

the site to defend what was once an important pearling and trading port.  Today the settlement is abandoned and the subject of an archaeological project.  What remained of the most recent fort has been excellently restored.  Because it's out of the way, the fort is basically empty.  One can wander around freely and see the whole place, undisturbed.  RasGas or QaPCo (can't remember which) provided for the renovations, and so the exhibits inside are mostly about the geology of the Peninsula and oil-and-gas production.  But the fort is definitely worth seeing.

 

The journey carried on through the interior.  It's a dry, empty expanse of rock, some sand, and the occasional shrub.  Despite the occasional "Camel Crossing" sign, without sighting any such thing, that part of our drive was basically uneventful.

I steered off the highway just northeast of Dukhan (the only active town on the western coast) up to Zekreet.  We intended to go up to what Google Maps has marked as the intriguingly named "Mystery Village," but couldn't figure out the way.  Instead, we headed for another fort.  That one proved highly disappointing.  the Zekreet Fort is a ruin now.  One can make the outline, but no more than a foot of the walls remain.

The Zekreet area itself, however, is worth the trip.  The beach is nice, but much more the rocky features just off the road.  None are particularly high (though if one fell off some it would hurt pretty badly), but they're a wonder to wander.  Carved by centuries of water and wind, one can find seams of iron and quartz run through them.  The colors are interesting.  Were it not so hot, we could have explored the mesas and valleys for hours.

The rented vehicle had to be back in Doha by 6:00 PM, so the day was running short.  We had intended to follow the road on to Dukhan, then back east; instead, we traveled the road through Al-Rayyan and directly to the rental place.

A terrific trip.

From Doha News: Flying Through Hamad International Airport

Qatar's new airport, years in development, opened this May.  On the 27th, the last planes took off from the old airport, and now every commercial flight will go in or out of Hamad International.

While I haven't been yet (though I will the first weekend of June on my way to Oman), DohaNews posted a good article on the new facilities and "What You Need to Know" about it.  Here are a few excerpts:

Flying through Hamad International Airport: What You Need to KnowBy: VICTORIA SCOTT | May 26, 2014

As of 9 AM, all commercial flights in and out of the country will operate from the new, state-of-the-art Hamad International Airport (HIA), signaling the closure of the overloaded Doha International Airport....For those encountering the new airport for the first time, here are some tips to help with your transition....HIA has both long term and short stay car parks. At the moment, both of these are free. Airport officials have not yet announced how much these will cost when charging is introduced....You’ll find a Karwa taxi rank to your left as you exit Arrivals. Remember that the standard additional charge for all airport pick-ups is QR25....a spokeswoman from HIA told Doha News today that all 30 cafes and restaurants will be open at the airport from Tuesday, along with 70 shops selling clothes, electronics and gourmet food. At least one public food outlet, The Caviar House, has alcohol on its menu....Qatar Airways advises that all passengers should try to arrive at the airport three hours before their flight. Check in will close an hour before departure for economy passengers, and 45 minutes beforehand for premium classes.
There is free wifi on offer throughout the airport.

I'm looking forward to my coming flight.  Check out the full article and others at Doha News.

Getting a Driver's License (Part Two)

Driving School and the Signals and Engine Tests.

The path to a driver's license can be confusing. If there are clear directions about what one must do, they're hard to find. Take the concept of the "driving school." The name is misleading.  When an American hears "driving school" it conjures up an image of being taught how to drive over the course of several days or weeks, sitting at a desk and learning the tedious, detailed rules of the road.  While that exists at Qatari driving schools, the facilities also serve to administer tests and give driver's licenses to those who pass.

None are really operated by the government.  Granted, there are a few Qatari officials there, and usually a Traffic Department officer overseeing things.  The overwhelming number of people working at the schools are mostly Indians and a few other Arabs.  In part, it's practical; the overwhelming number of people undergoing instruction and evaluation at the schools are Indian.  For a non-Arabic, non-Hindi, non-Malayalam, non-any other Indian dialect speaker, it can make for some difficulty.

For one, the facilities tend to be laid out strangely, and nothing is marked.  My efforts were conducted at the Gulf Driving School at the southern edge of Doha nor far from the old airport in Al-Thumama.  My first trip there, I wandered around for a bit until I found the main offices far inside the compound.  There, I eventually registered for a Signals Test and was told to go buy a guide book in the main waiting area in another building.

For the Signals Test, I was told to get there early in the morning -- 6 AM -- when there would be fewer people there.  That's a positive and negative thing.  There may have been few people there taking tests, but there was also almost no one around to direct me where to go.  And without any signs that say "Signals Test Here," I just had to wander around to find someone to show me where to go.

So, the first piece of advice, don't be embarrassed to wander around like a rube and ask every total stranger "where do I need to go?"

I had gone over the signals book a couple times (for any American or European you will already know almost all the road signs used in Qatar; but go through it to find the handful that are different, or have another meaning), but was still a bit nervous about the test, mainly because I had little idea what to expect.

I arrived at 5:50 AM, eventually figured out where to go, and was number twenty-four in line.  Be prepared to wait.  They didn't begin calling anyone for the test until about 7:00.  Then, they call people about twelve at a time -- except they called number twenty-four in the third group; so the wait added up to about an hour and a half or so.

The test itself was actually pretty easy.  It's conducted on a touch-screen computer.  A road-sign shows up along with four possible answers.  The only disconcerting part was a statement, worded as a statement, with a question mark: "It is illegal to use a mobile phone while operating a motor vehicle?"  The two options were "Right" and "Wrong."  If it was a question as to whether it is illegal to do so, the answer is "Right."  But if they're asking if the action is illegal, the answer would be "Wrong."  I chose "Wrong" reasoning that they meant tat the action was bad, and it turned out I was right.  There was a second statement/question worded the same (that I can't remember now) that I answered similarly.  Five-ten minutes and I was done and was told "You pass. Wait outside."

I did just that, glad I had passed.  Then, a few minutes later, a gruff Qatari said, "You come now for engine test," and walked outside.

I was unaware of this part of the process, so I had no idea what to expect.

We walked over to a car with its hood up, and the guy pointed to components and asked, "What this?"

I could remember most things, or at least the American vernacular for them (which confused the guy), but couldn't see the cap for the brake fluid and told him, "I'm not sure what that is."

He then stated, almost angrily, "You fail. Do again."

I barely understood what was going on anyways, so I asked, "When can I do it again?"

He was walking back inside (I followed, of course), and he started saying, "You do drive test" or something that sounded like that to me.

I replied, "Yes, I need to take the driving test."

He didn't like that.  "No.  You take drive test?"

It sounded exactly the same, so I said, "Yes, I still need to take the driving test, so when can I do the engine test again?"

He was getting annoyed by then and, with great irony, asked "What you's problem? You not know English?" and then promptly walked off where I couldn't follow.

A hopefully helpful map to navigate the Gulf Driving School compound

So I asked someone else about re-taking the engine test.  All he said was "Oh yes, wait here" and pointed to some chairs nearby.  I've learned, do not just take a seat anywhere.  You have to pester people to get things done sometimes.  So I watched for the engine test guy.  Once I saw him go back outside to do more engine tests about forty minutes later, I followed.  When he was done with one guy, I handed him my papers.  He pointed to just three components that time (instead of ten the time before), and though annoyed, he signed my stuff and told me where to go to sign up for the driving test.

From Doha News: Five Tips for New Expats on Settling into Qatar

Great advice from a great site on relocating to Qatar. Here's an excerpt:

Five Tips for New Expats on Settling into Qatar

By: Victoria Scott | May 16, 2014

In order to get the most of your time in Qatar, consider:

• Keeping busy with hobbies and events;
• Focusing on making new friends, both expat and local;
• Avoiding returning to your home country too often;
• Learning about local culture; and
• And exploring Qatar’s open spaces.

A fulfilling life in Qatar requires work, but if you’re prepared to put the effort in, I argue that the country will “pay your efforts back twice over.”

Check out the full article and others on Doha News.

Qatariïsms: Wasta

Wasta means connections.  Qatar runs on it.  In many cases, things in Qatar take time, or are downright confusing.  When it comes to the professional world, some people don't respond if they feel the requester is beneath them in status.

But Qatari citizens seem to know everyone; and since it's their country, they can demand a lot more done a lot faster when they want to.  As a consequence, if you are able, form personal relationships with Qatari citizens (which can be difficult for a variety of reasons).  And don't hesitate to ask for a little help, and to ask them to use their wasta.

Getting a Driver's License (Part One)

Prepare to be Annoyed (if You're American).

If you're an American and enjoy being frustrated and annoyed, then try to get your driver's license in Qatar.

If you're British or from a number of Western nations, the process for getting a driver's license here is (almost shockingly) easy.  About a month-and-a-half ago, a friend and I initiated the process to get our licenses -- basically on the same day.  The only difference between us was nationality: he's British, I'm American.  For most Westerners, all one must do is fill out an application, get a "no objection" letter from his employer, show a current driver's license from his country of origin, and he receives a Qatari license.

While that used to be the case up until about two years ago, Americans must now go through an additional level of scrutiny.  The rumor about Doha is that some sheik studying in the United States a couple years wanted a driver's license there, was required to do a series of driving tests, and so when he returned home to Qatar he called up a relative and demanded the same rules be applied to Americans here.  A believable, if not totally accurate story.

The New Traffic Department Building

For my British friend, it took about an hour-and-a-half hours to get down to the traffic department, submit the paperwork, get the license, and go back to his apartment.

The equivalent for me took about a month-and-a-half.

In the case of almost everyone in Qatar, the employer must create a "no objection" letter saying they don't mind.  I acquired that back in March.  Once that and the application are readied, the applicant must get an optical exam which can be conducted by any approved optometrist.  I did that about two weeks after I got the paperwork.  That's when Doha-delays set in.

At first it seemed as though wasta would provide some ease in the procedure.  There are several Qataris at the College with whom I have developed a good working relationship.  Qataris seem to know almost every other citizen in the country (and if they don't already, they just make a new friend; additionally, everyone has an uncle or cousin in every government ministry or office.  So I consulted with one of my citizen-associates and, just as I hoped, he had a friend in the Traffic Department.  Sounded like things were going to get through with ease.

My associate took my paperwork and said he would give it to his friend who would convert my license.  A week later, he said we needed to go get an eye exam and we went that night.  I thought we would go straight to the licensing office after, but instead we spent three hours in his majlis (which was actually pretty interesting, if not productive).  The next day, we went to the Traffic Department and found that there was no way around the rules -- I needed to go to driving school.

A (Very) Short History of Qatar (Part Four)

Since Independence.

One of the great keys to Qatari success has been its oil and natural gas production. Experts estimate that the state possesses more than fifteen percent of the world’s proven gas reserves. Because of the petroleum industry, Qatar is one of the wealthiest countries in the world as evidenced by the impressive construction in Doha over the past decade.

The immense wealth balances well with the small population. Just over two million people call Qatar home (permanently or temporarily). Resident foreigners vastly outnumber the Qatari citizenry. Indians and Pakistanis, for instance, constitute the largest ethnic groups with a combined 900,000 residents, while there are only 278,000 Qatari citizens.

The fantastic wealth of Qatar has lead to the erasure of basically all taxes for both citizens and residents, and an all-embracing welfare state for the Qatari people. Even for foreign residents, many services are free or heavily subsidized.

Qatar has also undergone a great deal of political and social change since its inception in 1971. A year after independence, conflict within the ruling al-Thani family resulted in palace coup by which Khalifa bin Hamad al-Thani took power.

Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani and his wife, Sheikha Moza

The monarchy initiated a program of modernization and modest liberalization after a bloodless second coup in 1995 gained power for Hamad bin Khalifa. That included the establishment, in 1996, of the Al-Jazeera Network through which Qatar is gaining regional influence. As a degree of press freedom has been instituted, the Doha-based satellite television station has attracted a growing audience and become one of the most important broadcasters in the Arab world.

 And testament to the growing influence of the English language in the region, Al-Jazeera launched exclusively English programming in 2006. Legislation approved in 2012, however, maintains certain regulations on what can and cannot be broadcast in media.

Qatar also has the highest level of internet usage in the Middle East, though some material remains filtered.

Additionally, as part of the liberalization efforts, in 1999 Qatar held elections for a municipal council. Women were permitted to both vote and run for office. In 2003, the government established a new constitution (that took effect in 2005) which created a parliament – the Advisory Council – with thirty elected and fifteen appointed members.

Sheikh Tamim (left) and the former emir, Hamad (right)

2003 also saw the beginning of a transition in leadership. That year, Sheikh Hamad announced the preference of one of his younger sons, Prince Tamim, for succession. In 2013, Hamad abdicated and peacefully transferred power – a unique move in the Middle East. Sheikh Tamim had been involved in running the country under his father's direction in previous years, and so many commentators do not anticipate any major changes to foreign or domestic policies of the previous two decades.

The tiny emirate also aims to be a major political player in the region. The Qataris have maintained good relations with the United States for several decades. After Iraq invaded Kuwait in 1990, Qatar allowed American forces on its soil. Qatari troops also took part in the liberation of Kuwait. In 2011, the Qatari helped arm the Libyan opposition and joined international military operations against Muammar Qaddafi.

They have also been active on the diplomatic stage, mediating disputes in the Middle East and Africa. And in 2012, the Afghan opposition was permitted to set up offices in Doha to facilitate peace talks with the American Government.

With so much still in progress, it will be fascinating to watch as Qatar expands its role in the world.

A Texan in Dubai

Oddly enough, there are some websites about "Things to Do in Qatar" that actually list "Travel to..." as a top activity.  There's plenty to do and see in Qatar.

At the same time, Doha is becoming a great hub for regional and international travel.  Several major, minor, expensive, and affordable carriers serve Doha International Airport.  Once the new airport is fully operational (it's been in progress for almost ten years now, and only just had a "soft" open for a couple low-cost airlines this last week), the situation will continue to improve.

When I received my Residency Permit the first week of February, I decided to book a trip for the first week of March.  I asked friends and family their suggestions, and the majority voted in favor of Dubai.  I could have chosen a different destination for that trip, because about a month later I went back, this time with a good friend of mine.  As has been mentioned before, here on this site, it's really easy to meet and make friends in Doha -- and it's far better to travel with people.

Dubai is a fantastic place to go.  It's definitely the Middle East's playground.  Whatever you enjoy, they probably have it.

My friend Isaac (who has an interesting, more technical blog, which provides a different perspective on our travels) and I went on FlyDubai, the local low-cost carrier.  I got a round-trip at a nice time for about 600 QR (170 USD); the quality is good; and even if it wasn't, the flight to the Emirates is only about an hour.

Additionally, for Americans, most Europeans, the Persian Gulf state-ers, and some other Westernized peoples, entry into the United Arab Emirates is easy and fast.  In our case, we walked right through the line, they stamped our visas, and we were on our way.

There are plenty of expensive hotels, but through travel sites like Booking, TripAdvisor, and others, high-quality/inexpensive accommodations can be found.  My first trip out I stayed at the Amwaj Rotana just off the beach in the Marina area (great, but a little pricier), and the second at the Flora Grand not far from Dubai International in Al-Rigga (good, and somewhat cheaper -- about $75 a person for two nights).

Travel around Dubai is great as well.  There is an abundance of taxis (the drivers of whom all speak English, or at the very least a version of it); and the Dubai Metro, while mostly a straight shot, stops at almost all the places you want to go, and it's the cheapest ride in town -- 16 AED (about 4 USD) for an all-day pass.

But it's not just about transit and accommodations, is it....There's quite a bit to do and see in Dubai.  Obviously, it depends on your own tastes, but here are a few ideas.

Madinat Jumeirah Souq

The Souq at Madinat Jumeirah was an unplanned but fantastic find.  Our goal was to get as close to the iconic Burj Al-Arab as possible (since one can only go in with a hotel or restaurant reservation, and both are unbelievably expensive).  One the way we ended up at Madinat Jumeirah.  It reminded me a lot of the River Walk in San Antonio.  Pleasant outdoor spaces, places to eat, plenty to buy.  I even found a fairly affordable Medieval Arab helmet -- which I've been looking for since I arrived in the region.

And of course, it's views of the Burj Al-Arab were unbeatable.

Candid

If you're made of money, there are plenty of places to shop.  Dubai has at least a dozen big-time malls.  The Mall of the Emirates is definitely nice (and you can go snow-skiing there...).  The Dubai Mall is truly the largest shopping center in the world.  It has every store I've ever seen, and a hundred more I've never heard of.  If you're like me and there are only a few stores that sell clothes you can actually wear, and can't find them anywhere in the Middle East, the Dubai Mall has them.

Dubai Mall Aquarium

And it's not just a mall.  The aquarium is impressive.  It boasts the largest single piece of plexiglass in the world.  The tunnel that goes under the massive tank is a real spectacle.  We ended up spending over an hour wandering through it.  Plus, if you go at the right time, you can watch some divers feed the array of things swimming around in there.

Another part of the facility, up on the second floor, has dozens of smaller tanks with a number of colorful creatures from the beautiful to the bizarre.  And, if you're really taken with the great tank, you can go on a glass-bottom raft ride.  It only lasts ten minutes, but it gives an interesting perspective.

I pray those needle-teeth never find my leg

Somewhat ridiculously, they give the passengers life-preservers.  We questioned exactly how someone might end up going over the side of the little dingy.  But if it happens to you, don't get eaten.

If you enjoy the more historical aspects of the world around you (like I do), there are a few good sites in Dubai.  There's the old pearl-diving village on Dubai Creek, not far from the former estate of the emir and his family.

Also, an old fort has been transformed into the Dubai Museum (though it was closed when we went -- just a tip, don't go to anything besides the major malls on Friday).  On the other side of the Creek there's a traditional school built in the early 1900s worth seeing, and Heritage House if you want to see how Emiratis lived not too long ago.

There are plenty of other things to do and see, but the cap on the entire trip was a trip up the Burj Khalifa.  For a mere 125 AED (34 USD) it's the best experience for the least amount of money.  It's hard to accurately describe.  Heading in, I thought it would be interesting; but it was better than I imagined.

The ride up to the observation deck is even a spectacle.  You get in a large elevator with LED screens on all sides.  As you go up, the lights run down the walls and the music gets increasingly dramatic.  Then, suddenly, when you reach floor 127, the lights go out and the music crescendos.  Then, the doors open to your first view from "the Top."

The view is spectacular.  We spent two hours wandering about just looking out over the city.  The Dubai Mall and the buildings around it look like models below.  On the northern side of the tower one can see the Emirate of Sharjah on the horizon.  It was late afternoon, so the sun hung low over the coast, which made for a nice scene.  The Palm Islands in the far distance were hazy, but visible, as were the World Islands (still under development).  The Burj Al-Arab, which is itself quite tall, looks miniscule from the Burj Khalifa.  It was easy to stare off in the distance for long moments of time.

Of all the places to go in Dubai, the Burj Khalifa cannot be missed.  But be sure to book your tickets online or you'll miss out -- spots open about a month in advance, and the times fill up faster than you can believe.

So, if you're in Qatar, take advantage of it.

Return of the Blog

After a series of trips, finals, and other things to occupy time, the Texan's Guide to Qatar will return with new posts this week, discussing things like a trip to Qatari historical sites, some places around Doha to have some fun, bits on travel to Dubai and Egypt (both for surprisingly cheap...from the Doha airport), and maybe even a mention of the new Hamad International Airport.

A (Very) Short History of Qatar (Part Three)

Oil and Independence.

A major step in Qatar’s emergence occurred in 1935 when a consortium of American, British, Dutch, and French oil interests were granted a concession for oil exploration and production in the peninsula. High-quality oil was first discovered at Dukhan in 1939, and additional fields in 1940. Due to the Second World War, production and exportation did not begin until 1949. But over the subsequent decade, oil revenues provided funds for expansion and improvement of Qatar’s infrastructure system. In the 1960s, petrol-based prosperity led to rapid immigration, significant social progress, and the beginnings of modernization.

Decolonization of Europe’s world empires reached the Persian Gulf in 1968 when the British Government announced withdrawal from the region. That same year Qatar entered into negotiations with Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Bahrain, Dubai, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah, and Umm al-Qaiwain for the formation of a federation. The plan progressed up to late 1971, when Britain officially terminated its agreements with the Truce States; but the nine states had yet to formalize an agreement on union.

Then, on 3 September 1971, Qatar struck out on a separate course and declared its independence. Bahrain followed soon after. By December of that year the United Arab Emirates was formed, but without those two states as members.

Exit Permits: Am I Sixteen Again?

For any Westerner over the age of eighteen, it’s taken for granted that once one reaches the age of majority he can pretty much go where he wants when he wants. In a way, that’s not the case in Qatar for a foreign resident. This is an aspect of residency that takes some getting used to, but it’s not as troublesome as it sounds.

Once one has received his Residency Permit and identification card, he can travel but must first ask permission from the government to leave the country. I recently went to Dubai for a weekend vacation. I arranged the trip a month ahead, so I knew exactly when I was leaving well in advance. About two weeks out, I went to the College’s human resources department. As with most everything, the request for and issuance of Exit Permits is managed by the employer. The form was simple: name, Resident ID number, destination, departure date, return date. Two days before my departure, the permit was finalized and human resources gave me a copy of the verification. When I took off, I carried the document with me but no one ever asked for it. The information is tied to the passport, so they have all the records.

 

It’s not as sinister as it sounds. While there is room for problems, it’s minimal. As long as the government receives twenty-four-hour’s notice travel abroad is easy, and in the Persian Gulf region pretty cheap.

 

So, make sure mommy and daddy know where you’re going and maybe they’ll even let you stay out past your curfew.

Either I'm Famous, or I Look Like Someone Who Is

Despite some (semi-justified) perceptions, people in this region of the world are immensely friendly and generous.  In general, there is always someone willing to help in some way.

The other day, I made the ten-minute walk to the local grocery store for a few things.  I can only buy so much, because the ten-minute walk back with forty-fifty pounds of frozen meat and bottles of water after the first quarter mile.  Waiting in line, an older man started talking, but I didn't realize it was directed at me because he was speaking Arabic.  When it occurred that he was looking at me, I replied "Sorry?" because it could have been that I just misunderstood his English.  "No Araby?" he asked.

"No, sorry, just English," I answered.

"Oh were are you from?"

"The United States."

"Oh yes. Where in United States?"

"Texas."

"I have brother who go to Dallas."

And so our conversation continued.  Then, as the checker was going through my items, the older Lebanese man offered to give me a ride.  Back home, we're taught that's kind of creepy, and not to take rides from strangers.  In local culture, however, it is only polite to make such an offer; and it is highly impolite to not accept (although it's also impolite to automatically accept).  So I told him that was not necessary, but thanked him for the offer.  I was hoping he would not press it, but he did: "No, is okay, so close. I take you."  So I hopped in his truck and we rode to my place.  I hoped out, thanked him, and that was that.  It's how things work here in this part of the world.

Here's something I can't explain:

Just a few weeks after I got here I was at one of the malls, just walking around.  A couple of strangers, Arabs if I remember right, asked to take a picture with me -- not of me, with me.  It's happened a few more times since then, including just the other day.  More interesting, the same happened at the Dubai Mall a couple weeks ago; a group of Indian guys wanted to take their picture with me (three of them, individually).

Some Saudis who recently asked to get a photo with me

I've yet to find an explanation, but I've come up with three possibilities: 1.) people think I'm famous, so they want to get a photo with me (but no one has asked for an autograph so far); 2.) I look like someone famous and so people think I am him (again, no one has asked for an autograph); or 3.) I'm considered fantastically handsome in this part of the world, and people want a record that they saw someone so good looking.

Granted, it's probably not the last or I may have been kicked out of the country (something that has happened, by the way).  But it's probably that one.

A (Very) Short History of Qatar (Part Two)

The British Period.


While the earliest years of Qatar were dominated by Islamic forces, for about one hundred and fifty years the British were the most powerful influence in Persian Gulf and Qatari affairs.

Due to the Persian Gulf’s proximity to India and other trade interests, the British became highly concerned with stability in eastern Arabia.  To minimize piracy, the United Kingdom arranged the General Maritime Treaty in 1820 with the sheikhs of Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Bahrain, Dubai Sharjah, and Umm Al-Quwain. The British solidified the protectorate status of the “Trucial States” in a subsequent treaty in 1853.

After a series of disputes over territorial claims between Qatar’s tribal elite and the rulers in Bahrain, the two went to war in 1867.  The conflict ended the next year with the semi-independence of Qatar under British protection.  Not only did the English recognize Qatar as a separate entity from Bahrain, but the 1868 Treaty endorsed Sheikh Mohammad bin Thani of Ad-Dawha as ruler of the peninsula.

Despite British dependency status, the Qataris maintained a historic connection with the Ottoman Caliphs.  The Turks held official governance over the Persian Gulf from the 1500s onward.  By the 1800s, that rule was truly indirect with the effective independence of the Treaty Emirates guaranteed by the British.  Still, the al-Thani emirs recognized their subject status to the Ottoman sultans into the early 1900s.  In 1871, Turkish forces established a garrison at the Qataris' invitation.  They would maintain forces in Qatar up until the start of the First World War in 1914.



When the Turks abandoned Qatar to concentrate forces against the Entente forces in 1915, the Ottoman and British governments recognized Abdullah bin Jassim as ruler of Qatar.

With the departure of the Turks, the British negotiated a new treaty with the al-Thani in 1916 and formalized the state’s protectorate status.  Under the agreement with Sheikh Abdullah, Britain gained control of Qatar's external affairs.  The Qataris promised not to cede any territory, or enter into relationships with, any other foreign governments without British consent.  In recompense, the British Government promised protection from all aggression. Another treaty in 1934 provided even greater British protection.  At the same time, British influence inside the country was limited to supervision of some administrative matters.